As we drove down the other side of the mountain, the skies cleared and the views were amazing. We crossed a couple more passes, and were starting up another mountain, when the Lady told us to make a left hand turn and board the ferry. The ferry across what?? There were signs for some kind of mass transit, so we turned in. I went in the office – luckily one of the other customers spoke English and explained that there was a train that would take us and the car through the mountains in 15 minutes for $25. I asked if we could drive over the pass, and she assured me that we could if we would be careful, so we took that option. What a drive!! As we climbed, we drove into the clouds, and couldn't see 100 feet ahead of us. I knew there was beautiful scenery all around us, but we were in pea soup. Soon, we dropped below the clouds and the view was breathtaking. I do believe it was the most awe-inspiring drive we have taken – and that is saying something. Going down was a series of sharp switch-backs, and each turn brought a different view. Even driving, Dick loved it. When we finally got to the bottom, it was getting late and we decided to look for a place to stay. This was our first “unbooked” night of the trip, and one of the exercises we never enjoy. Since we were in a new country (Switzerland), we had no idea what to expect in prices. The Swiss have not yet adopted the Euro, so use Swiss Francs, which are just about on par with the USD. I knew Switzerland was more expensive than the rest of Europe, if that was possible, but Dick had in mind that we could find a little “Zimmer mit Fruhstuck” (room with breakfast) like in Germany for well under $100 like we used to in Germany, and was not ready to let go of that fantasy. The first place we stopped was a little 3 star hotel and restaurant - $125 plus dinner. Cute, but Dick was determined. After another hour of stopping at places, we realized that $120 was the minimum, and by that time, it was really time to stop. So, predictably, we ended up at a crummy hotel with a lousy dinner for the same $120 plus dinner. Oh well....a typical first night in a new country.

The next day was sunny and a beautiful day to continue through Switzerland. We decided that we wanted to get to France and went around the south side of Lake Geneva. Very nice drive – Geneva is a beautiful city, although we just drove through it. Looks like it would be worth exploring on another trip. Although there were manned border stops, they weren't stopping people – our passport still hasn't been stamped, not even when we arrived in the EU. For some reason, they stamp them when you arrive by air, but not on a cruise ship.

Beaune, France is the center of the Burgundy wine country and a very attractive town. We didn't have reservations so went to the Tourist Information center. Those places are great – they will help you find something, call for availability, and make the reservations. We wanted a B&B, but this is high season, and none were available for three nights. We ended up at a two star hotel right in town, which turned out to be fun. Nothing fancy, but did have both BBC and CNN International, which is fun once in a while. Also had paid internet access in the room. As much as I love French bread, breakfast of only a croissant, a pain de chocolat (croissant stuffed with dark chocolate), baguette, butter, jam, orange juice, and coffee was just a bit too much carb and too little protein for me (and 7 Euro a head). Although French bread and pastries are reasonably priced in boulangeries, they have always put a high price on serving them to you at a hotel – even before exchange rate and inflation problems. So, for just a few Euros more, we found a cafe that served omelets.

The first restaurant we went to for dinner had a lovely outdoor setting, but neither of us was overly impressed with our meal – I had the famous beef bourgogne, but found it to be dry. The second night, we went to the tourist office, and they steered us to Cave de Madeleine, where we sat at a long table with others. The menu was on the board, and it took some work to figure out what we wanted, but it was worth it (although Dick was not impressed with his beef bourgogne, either – we have decided that maybe we just don't like their version of it). I had a very tasty roasted chicken with Dijon sauce – very regional and very good). What really enhanced the experience, however, were our dinner companions. On one side was a delightful French couple from near Strasbourg in the Alsatian region (one of our favs). She speaks no English and he just school English (although I would kill to speak French as well as he speaks English), but we were able to maintain a conversation. By the end of the evening, they had invited us to come stay at their house next week on our way to Germany, and we accepted! That is such a European thing to do. We Americans are very friendly and helpful, but not many of us would invite dinner companions to come stay with us. On the other side, was an American family – the parents were from Brighton, MI and their son and wife are stationed in Germany. He is an F16 pilot. So, great evening.

The next evening, Relais de Madeleine, which had not been open the two previous nights, finally opened. It had been recommended by our hotel owner, and was really a find. We sat next to two couples from the states who had been to the region several times and were very interesting. The food was great, as were the prices. I guess it is also a Rick Steves pick. One thing we have been pleased to find is that the French (and Italians) have given up on trying to force bottled water on you, and if you can figure out how to ask for it, they will serve you chilled tap water without too much eye rolling.

The one big blunder on my part in Beaune was missing the Caves du Marche. As the heart of Burgundy country (pinot noir grapes), there were lots of tasting opportunities (at Napa Valley prices), but we just hadn't done it. Dick doesn't enjoy it and it isn't much fun to do alone. On the last night, however, we learned of the Caves du Marche – the ultimate tasting place, where for 10 Euro, you can taste 20 or so wines, including really high end ones, in a really cool cave environment. Darn!!! Oh well, another reason to come back.....

Our next stop was the Loire, where we were meeting Dick's oldest daughter, Mary, her husband, Bob, and their daughters, Nora (13) and Emily (10). We stayed in a beautiful gite (at www.gites-touraine.com, ours is Gite N. 16031 at Beaumont-Village, Indre et Loire) through Gites de France. We are in a tiny village in a great 4 bedroom, 2 bathroom house, renovated in 2005, beautifully furnished, and great place for families (or just adults). Besides the house, there is a huge stone barn containing a ping pong table, darts, one adult and one child bike, tennis rackets for the local public courts, etc. Outside is a basketball hoop and bocci ball court and a swing set. Inside are lots of games. Outstanding place – the pictures on the internet do not do it justice. Although we are out in the boonies (no cell phone or internet service), we are within 30 – 40 miles of the big Loire towns, Tours, Amboise, Blois, and 12 miles from other fun ones like Montrichard and Loches (free internet). Montresor, one the “Beautiful Villages of France” is just a couple miles away. This area is known primarily for its chateaus and castles, and they are everywhere. It is also a really agricultural area, so picture Iowa with lots of castles and medieval era cathedrals. Many of the castles and churches were built from 1100 – 1600 or so, and are available for touring. While the castles were often built for defense, the chateaus were built for comfort and are beautiful. One of the most famous is at Chennonceaux, and is well worth the price of admission, as was the smaller one in our little neighboring village of Montresor. We are going back tonight for the Nuit Splendour, where they do some sort of lighting event every Friday and Saturday nights in the summer. We saw lots of tourists in Amboise and Chennonceaux, but not many anywhere else.

One other thing we enjoyed - there is no butcher in our village so twice a week, the meat truck, like those in the weekly markets comes to town. He was parked right outside our gate, side down, cutting meat....you gotta love it.....

We had a great time with the kids – went paddle-boating one morning, and they loved all the play equipment here at the house. After touring London and Paris, they would have been happy if we had never left our gite, although Emi does love poking around the nooks and crannies of the castles and grounds. Of the two, she is the Francophile, while Nora loved London.

The kids left on Wednesday, and Dick and I stayed in the gite for the rest of the week. Did a little wine tasting yesterday, but mostly are hanging around here resting up and packing for our moving day tomorrow. This is a house and an area I could easily stay in for 2-3 months. Emi says that when she grows up, she is going to find this house and buy it,