Montreal is a beautiful city, but it is a large city and all the signs are in French, so we have done our share of getting lost. We did figure out the bus system (with some help) and took it into the city the first two days. The first day was more just getting our bearings, hitting the information place, and doing the stupid stuff we always seem to do the first day in cities, i.e., picking the first decent looking restaurant we saw, and paying a large amount of money for a very mediocre meal, stopping for a drink later in the afternoon and paying $30 for a glass of wine each, etc. On the positive side, we did a lot of walking and saw a very impressive evening show at the Notre Dame Cathedral. And we found our way back to the bus station!
In the next couple of days, we visited neighborhoods I had read about on internet sites. We were walking for blocks looking for an Afghanistan restaurant named Khyber Pass when we asked directions. Coincidentally, the two men, one Moroccan and one Iranian, were looking for the same restaurant, so we walked together. During the conversation, the Iranian man suggested that one day during our visit, we should go to a restaurant run by friends of his -
Byblo Café. He told us to be sure to tell them that Babak had sent us. The next day we followed his suggestion. When we told the owner of the referral, she took over. Altho she gave us a menu and told us about the daily specials, when we chose those, she told us we were wrong and then told us the 5 or 6 “small plates” we should order…..and of course we did…..and it was delicious. Very different from all the other middle eastern food we have had. When we ordered the hot soup, she also brought the cold one. Even though we did not order dessert, one appeared on our table. When I ordered coffee at the end of the lunch, she came running over to tell me I must have tea instead. I am not sure why she put us through the exercise of even ordering, but it was a delightful experience.
Another highlight of that day was the Marche Jean-Talon, a beautiful outdoor market. The produce and flowers were beautiful, and it was surrounded by specialty stores – bakeries, spice shops, cheese shops, ethnic food shops, etc. If I wanted to live in any one place (which I certainly don’t), it would be near a market like that one.
A canal was built years ago to re-route commercial traffic around the rapids in the St. Lawrence river. The canal is now only used for pleasure craft and a great multi-purpose trail has been built beside it – La Chine Historical Trail. Saturday, we took our bikes into town and couldn’t believe that we found a free (and available) parking lot at one of the trail entrances. Parking is always a challenge for us in any non-English speaking city since we are never sure what is legal and what isn’t, and live in horror of trying to get our Jeep out of the pound.
Anyway, we ended up cycling about 20 miles, including a stop at the Atwater Market, not quite as nice as Jean-Talon, but still great. I found an Italian market with great looking paninis, so carbs-be-damned, I ordered a ham, brie, and pesto sandwich, hot, gooey, and crispy, right out of the panini machine. My first big splurge in months, and I didn’t regret a minute of it. Besides, you can’t possibly gain weight when you cycle 20 miles, can you?
Sunday, we went back to our parking space and cycled the other direction, although as it turned out , it wasn’t in the right direction. We found ourselves going over a bridge to an island, with a long line of very aggressive bikers following us, keeping us from stopping and turning around. But, we did end up exploring the island and found that it held the track for the Formula One races, which made for a great biking track. We left the island and returned to our car to decide where we went wrong, and found the direction towards Old Montreal. Since they were celebrating St. Jean-Baptiste Day, the annual commemoration of the French settling Quebec province, there were lots of activities, and we spent a pleasant hour listening to a small orchestra playing Beatles tunes. Although we only rode about 10 miles, my legs were plenty sore from the day before, and I was pretty whiny before we made it back to the car.
Montreal is a beautiful and very international city, with lots of great little neighborhoods and the fact that we did more biking and walking than riding in the car gave us a much better feel for it. I would recommend it.
Now, off to Quebec City……